Remembering the 2022 Fatal Climbing Tragedy on Manaslu

As climbing expeditions embark on Manaslu, the world's 8th highest peak, we remember the fatal avalanche that took Hilaree Nelson.

Manaslu Avalanche / Samyog Shrestha - Himalayan Masters

Remembering Hilaree Nelson

Nearly two years ago, Hilaree Nelson and her life-partner Jim Morrison summited 26,781-foot Manaslu – the eighth highest peak in the world. Both accomplished climbers and skiers, they donned their skis and set off from the summit.

A small avalanche quickly derailed Nelson, abruptly sending her 5,000 feet down the formable mountain to her death.

Instantly one of the most accomplished mountaineers in history met the same fate as so many legendary climbers before her. The beautiful, strong, humble, and inspiring Hilaree Nelson left behind two sons – Graydon and Quinn.

The lure of the mountains can be intense, though the consequences of going are often fatal But to many adventurers, the exhilarating journey is worth the lofty risk. Abigail Barronian eloquently wrote an article for Outside Magazine about the amazing Hilaree, and her tragic death, in September, 2022.

Barronian noted that ‘Nelson, 49, was a giant in her field: one of the most accomplished ski mountaineers in the world, a mother of two boys, a mentor to many, and an inspiration to more. The environments she thrived in, remote high alpine regions that she explored on foot and by ski, are inherently inhospitable to human life. Her discipline has claimed the lives of many of its most dedicated acolytes, but something about Nelson—her formidable physical strength, her calm, resonant demeanor, and the many years that she has safely traveled through treacherous terrain—seemed to give her an air of invincibility.’

“Her accomplishments made her a larger-than-life character, but she never bought into the hype,” wrote climber Mark Synnott in a tribute. “She wore the mantle of being one of the world’s preeminent ski mountaineers (male or female) with a grace and genuine humility.” 

Manaslu / Ben Tubby/ Wikipedia

Elite Skier and Mountaineer

Nelson was an exceptional skier, having grown up in Seattle and learning to ski in the rugged Cascade Mountains. She further refined her skiing abilities in Europe, and in 1996 won the European Extreme Ski Competition in Chamonix, France.

She was also an elite climber.  In 2012 Nelson summited Everest and Lhotse in a 24-hour window, making her the first woman to climb two 8,000-meter peaks in one day.

In 2015, she was the first female to descend Makalu La Couloir on 27,766-foot Makalu. In 2018, she and Morrison made the first ski descent of Lhotse, the fourth highest peak in the world, making her one of National Geographic’s Adventurers of the Year.

Hilaree was named Captain of The North Face Global Athlete Team, and honor that exemplified her spirit, leadership qualities, humility, strength and grace.

Hilaree Nelson on Lhotse - 2018 / Nick Kalisz

“She was a force, strong and powerful, but she also was not afraid to be vulnerable, express her fears, and be honest. There was this tenderness and rawness about her that she was willing to share with us, especially younger women,” said climber Emily Harrington. Professional skier Ingrid Backstrom remembered, “She showed me that you don’t need to be only tough and badass to succeed in the mountains, you can be kind and nurturing, hard as nails and still soft and caring.”

Manaslu / Ben Tubby/ Wikipedia

Manaslu Climbing Season

Hilaree Nelson will be remembered not only as an elite ski-mountaineer, but as an amazing person and shining light. Her memory among the climbing community is especially poignant this time of year.

It's climbing season on Manaslu, and climbers are descending upon mountain to embark on their own journeys up the 8,000-meter peak located in the Mansiri Himal range of the Nepalese Himalayas.

I am confident that Hilaree's spirit will surround these teams with warmth and safety.