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Newfangled classic

Dec. 01, 1958
Dec. 01, 1958

Table of Contents
Dec. 1, 1958

Homemade Mountains
Pro Football
Pro Golf
Spectacle
Events & Discoveries
Wonderful World Of Sport
Ski Preview
On Field And Campus
Pro Basketball
Hockey
Cards
Food
Obiter Dicta
  • Or, some passing remarks from the halls of science by a wise and witty man who proves that the ivory tower has a view—including a view of sports. And so we introduce Dr. Vannevar Bush, spectator sports expert, chairman of the corporation of Massachusetts Institute of Technology, leader of scientists—and a host of his colleagues, whose interests, as shown here, range from boxing through sailing to driving hot cars

19th Hole: The Readers Take Over
Pat On The Back

Newfangled classic

Italian risotto proves easy to make with electric control

Anyone who has traveled around northern Italy remembers the great variety of delicious rice dishes which often replace pasta in the plains of Lombardy and in the towns and villages among the craggy hills of Piedmont and the Veneto. These staple dishes of the north Italian are as beautiful to look at as they are to smell and to taste. But the main delight is a unique texture: authentic risotto is both creamy and separate-grained at one and the same time. This means that the rice should be enfolded in a suave coating, but every single kernel should be chewy at the center—done "to the tooth," as the Italians say.

This is an article from the Dec. 1, 1958 issue Original Layout

To achieve this desired end, a peculiarly laborious cooking technique evolved centuries ago in these provinces. The prime requisite is an unflagging elbow to stir the slowly cooking rice continuously during a half to three-quarters of an hour, while the cooking liquid is added cup by cup. With an ordinary pan and burner, the rice is apt to stick and burn if left unattended even for a moment. This is one reason why risotto appears in the U.S. only in restaurants or on the tables of Italian-American families boasting a strong-minded and patient mamma.

For a far easier method to prepare genuine risotto, the new electric fry pan is a discovery of hearth-shaking importance. This gadget (a number of different brands are available) is very heavy and as completely heat-controlled as a modern oven; the rice almost attends to itself in the pan, requiring only a few occasional stirs when the broth is added. To prepare the savory dish shown above, here is the way to proceed:

RISOTTO ALLA MILANESE
Serves 6

Ingredients

1½ cups unwashed, unprocessed white rice
1 large yellow onion, minced fine
‚Öú pound butter
1½ cups dry white wine
5 cups clear chicken broth (approximate)
¾ tablespoon saffron (this can be bought in shops that carry herbs and spices, as well as in drugstores)
2 cups grated Parmesan cheese

Directions

Use large-size electric fry pan and wooden stirring spoon.

Put broth to simmer in double boiler. Pound saffron finely, place in a cup, fill with some of the broth. Place half the butter, cut in bits, and the minced onion in cold electric fry pan; turn gauge to 260°; stew till onion is pale yellow. Turn gauge to 300°; add rice; stir until rice is opaque-white (about 5 minutes). Add wine, letting it boil up; when absorbed, turn gauge to 240°; begin adding hot broth by cupfuls. Stir while adding each cup, pouring in the next one only after previous cupful has been absorbed. Finally add cup of saffron broth, stirring well. (Since rice varies in dryness, exact amount of broth needed to attain desired consistency will vary slightly.)

Transfer to hot serving dish. Toss with butter and Parmesan cheese to taste. Serve with rest of cheese, butter, and frizzled ham if desired.

PHOTOLOUISE DAHL-WOLF; MARBLE FROM ITALIAN MARBLE MART; TRIVET, BLOOMINGDALE'S; SERVING DISHES, MAYHEW