The big fall news is that sportswear takes on a new look from the color and texture of the field. The colors—burnished golds and bronzed greens, russet reds and burnt oranges—come right from the autumnal countryside. The textures—tweeds, coverts, corduroys and whipcords, booting leathers and rusty su√®des—derive from the same source. To photograph this preview of the new look of Fall '59, SPORTS ILLUSTRATED made a choice of the best of fall's new sport clothes and took them out to where they will be seen and used. Thus, you see them at dog shows and field trials, race meets, horse shows and sports car races. The clothes shown on these 14 pages (with the exception of a fine collection of field clothes designed specifically for gun and for field-dog events) will be worn everywhere out of doors this fall. Among the many facets of the look shown on these pages are some welcome reappearances. The vest is back, under both suit and sport jacket. Reversible all-purpose coats—whipcord to poplin, tweed to twill—have also reappeared, after too long an absence. The belted polo coat is found in many guises, but none so well suited to elegant fall field events as a vicuna-colored cashmere. The country costume, coat with matching skirt, is a spectacular spectator revival. But there is also a hardy crop of first-time-outers: a man's stone-gray fedora, its brim given an extra English snap; a feminine version in blue velour; Italian-made leather stretch gloves, fitting snugly, yet unbinding, designed for shooting and for driving; belting-leather buckled boots; and the boot look in country shoes.
Dressed in sweaters and pants in fall's field colors, Frank Poe and Didi Ladd watch sports car races at Thompson, Conn. Frank's sweater ($13, Fashion Hill: B. Altman; Frederick & Nelson; Stix, Baer & Fuller) is mohair and wool, his slacks corduroy ($17, Rudd: I. Magnin). Didi's sweater ($20) matches knit slacks ($25, both Geist & Geist: B. Altman; Higbee Co.; Neusteter's). Her shoes have new high tongue ($19, Millerkins: I. Miller, N.Y.). Green stockings are stretch nylon ($1.65, Mavis).
1 Shooting clothes correct for fall fields anywhere are shown on these pages in Long Island settings. At left, crossing a meadow, Barbara Lawrence wears sturdy canvas breeches with leather knee patches ($29) and a chamois shirt ($70, both by Bonnie Cashin, for Philip Sills: Roos-Atkins; Lord & Taylor; Neiman-Marcus). Jack Griffs wears a wool-lined su√®ded-poplin field jacket ($49.50), briarproof canvas-front poplin trousers ($24.50, both Willis & Geiger: Saks Fifth Avenue, New York) and Russell boots ($27.50, Abercrombie & Filch.)
2 Woman's field boot of saddle leather is copy of desert boot ($10, Sandler of Boston: B. Allmau & Co.; Harzfeld's).
September 13, 1959
3 Field gloves have cape palms, string backs, stretch side-walls ($8.50, American Astral: at Maurice L. Rothschild). Short shooter field coat of iridescent gabardine has patch pockets, game pouch, wool tartan lining ($42.50, Burberry).
4 Dog Trainer Dick Boycks, in loden-cloth shooting coat ($95, Baker) and Safari-cloth trousers ($15.50), works out with Upland Farm's Labrador retrievers as owner's wife, Mrs. Roger Vasselais, looks on, in beige whipcord shooting jacket and slacks ($60 jacket, $28.50 slacks: all from Abercrombie & Fitch).
5 Field accessories are shoulder-strap bag of Norwegian hair seal ($26, Greta Originals: Bonwil Teller, Philadelphia and New York; G. Fox & Co.) and string gloves with capeskin palms, wrist vents ($6, Aris: at Bon Marche; Gus Mayer).
From countryside to city streets
Here are the burnished-tone tweeds, the rusty su√®des which give this fall's sportswear the look of fall's fields. The clothes shown in black and white on these pages come in the same colors and textures as those shown in color. The big news here and on the next two pages is the advent of the odd tweed sport jacket for women (below left), the country costume which, with the casual elegance of gloves, handbags and shoes, moves from country to town.
1 Plaid warms car fans. Bonnie Dalzell's is by Bill Atkinson, Glen of Michigan ($20: Lord & Taylor; I. Magnin), Claude he Tourneau's by Woolrich ($13: Baskin's; Harvey, Ltd.).
2 Su√®de-front pullover from Italy has knitted sleeves, yoke and back ($80, Gino Paoli: Bullock & Jones; Jas. K. Wilson). Hilhouse cap, American Astral string-back driving gloves.
3 Russet Scottish tweed jacket ($75, Hilton: Frank Bros.; Fenn-Feinstein) teams with suéde hacking vest ($28.50, David Church: I. Magnin), challis tie ($2.50, Reis), off-white corduroys ($17, Rudd: I. Magnin). Tyrolean hat ($20) has ring-neck-pheasant feather band ($160, both at Cavanagh).
4 Irish tweed balmacaan coat ($125) and walking skirt ($35, Ellen Brooke for Glenhunt: Garfinckel; Robert Kirk; Lord & Taylor) are worn by Barbara Lawrence with silk shirt and ascot. Lined cape gloves by American Astral. Calderon belt.
5 Odd sport jacket of burnished gold tweed ($60) is tossed over blue silk shirt with stock tie ($25) and blue tweed skirt ($27, all B. H. Wragge: Bonwit Teller; Harold's; I. Magnin).
6 Epauleted coat is of Scottish district check tweed ($135, Vera Maxwell: Kaufmann's; May—D&F). Sunburst carnelian pin is by Sandor ($5), pigskin gloves are by Superb ($14.50).
1 Reversible hooded coat of burgundy-and-white cashmere ($275), striped-lo-match cashmere dress ($100, both Tina Leser: Neiman-Marcus) are worn by Leonie Vernet at Far Hills horse show. Satchel is grained calf ($49.50, Greta: Bergdorf Goodman).
2 Country costume of black-and-white hound's-tooth-check waterproofed wool ($40 coat, $17 skirt, Pendleton: Wm. H. Block; J. L. Hudson; Meier & Frank; Wallachs) is worn by Janet. Wagner, shown a field with New Jersey's Spring Valley Hounds.
3 Leather-faced poplin raincoat ($145) has many pockets, change purse, pile lining. Leonie wears it over knit mohair dress ($85, Bonnie Cashin for Sills: J. P. Allen; Lord & Taylor; Neiman-Marcus; Neusteter's). In rear, the Tewksbury Foot Bassetts.
4 Belted trench coat of vicu√±a-colored cashmere lined to match plaid wool dress ($465 coat; $245 dress, Scaasi: Bonwit Teller; Bramson's; I. Magnin; John Wanamaker) is worn by Leonie at Far Hills horse show. Blue velour fedora by Emme.
On turf and field
At Blind Brook Polo Field in Purchase, N.Y. a race meet brings out one of autumn's most fashionable crowds and shows the look of fall and field in many facets. It reveals a preference by men for bold plaids and checks, for shawl-collared coats, for vests that match suits and contrast with sport jackets. Solid-color blazers and jackets are set off by checked trousers. Hats have an English turn, a new high roll in back. For the ladies, there are a raft of reversible coats and skirts, as good-looking as they are versatile.
1 Double-breasted Saxony woolen plaid coat has alpaca pile lining, shawl collar, is knee-length ($135, Aquascutum: Al Berman; Walker, Ltd.). Pinch-front felt hat has sharply rolled brim ($9, Adam).
2 Fedora hat ($17) matches woman's weatherproof coat ($125) which reverses from men's-wear-weight whipcord to poplin (both Aquascutum: Lord & Taylor).
3 Double-breasted Continental blazer of navy blue hopsacking tweed ($40, Wor-sted-Tex: L. S. Ayers) teams with Glen-plaid worsted slacks ($23.50, Majer). Sero oxford-cloth shirt ($6). Reis tie ($2.50).
4 The vested suit returns, here in a Glen-plaid English worsted of modified Bond St. shaping—hacking pockets, indented waist, side vents ($125, Grieco: Paul Stuart). English-block hat has roll brim ($13.50, Dobbs). Reis silk pocket square.
5 Wrap-around reversible skirt is of a two-face black-and-white Anglo tweed ($140, Sloat: Marshall Field). Shoes by Sandler.
6 Jacket of olive Orion-wool hopsacking has game-bird-printed lining, ($45) goes with plaid trousers in olive-burgundy mixture ($23); camel-colored vest ($15, all Gordon of Philadelphia: Lord & Taylor).
7 Vest of Chilean rock seal ($90, Harold J. Rubin) can be worn with blouses, suits.
8 Lovat Harris tweed topcoat has plaid wool lining ($135, Rodex: Saks Fifth Ave.).
9 Italian coat has plaid lining ($55, Intl. Trends: Casual-Aire). Sweater is mohair, wool ($12, Robert Bruce: Arrow Store).
10 Hand-sewn moccasin has a square toe ($20, E. E. Taylor: J. W. Robinson).
11 Mustard Shetland jacket ($47.50, Linett: Lord & Taylor) complements checked slacks ($22.50, Dunlee: Bullock's, L.A.).
With dog and gun
The hard-wearing fabrics and the functional, clean designs which distinguish the field look are best exemplified by the clothes worn at field-dog and gun events. As shown here, they are at the same time utilitarian and handsome. Jackets have action backs, shell pockets and, in many cases, leather piping. Pants have no cuffs. The fabrics resist briars, wear and tear, and the elements.
1 Shooting jacket ($60) and trousers ($28.50) are of rugged green wool forestry cloth. With the outfit, Mrs. Roger Vasselais wears Russell Bird Shooter boots ($28.50: Abercrombie & Fitch).
2 Whipcord skeet jacket ($75), pants ($27.50) are worn by Jack Griffis; woman's jacket is cotton poplin ($22.50, all Willis & Geiger). Melissa Weston teams it with corduroy pants ($9, White Stag). All at Joseph Home Co.
3 Jacket of corduroy with su√®de yoke ($85, David Church: Abercrombie & Fitch) is dog show attire for Paid Brine. Hat is the Piper ($12.50, Thomas Begg).
4 Silk-lined antelope-su√®de pants ($90), matching knit-and-suede pullover ($80, both Korrigun-Lesur) are worn by Melissa Weston at Labrador trial. Her bag is of soft cowhide ($23, Calderon). All I. Magnin. Tiffany pin.
5 Hunting jacket of water-repellent iridescent Egyptian cotton gabardine has detachable poaching pocket ($78, Burberry: Abercrombie & Fitch Co.). Duofold brushed-cotton turtle-neck ($3).
6 Ladies' shooting coat is also of iridescent Egyptian cotton; has game and shell pockets, corduroy collar ($40: Saks Fifth Ave.). Stretchable, capeskin shooting gloves ($6.50, American Astral).
7 Man's shirt-jacket is hand-tailored of Spanish su√®de, has side vents, zipper pockets, horn buttons ($75). Lightweight felt field hat is the Christy ($14.50: both at Abercrombie & Fitch).
8 Authentic African safari kit is made in Nairobi of cotton twill. Jacket has belt, bellows pockets ($28.50), pants have adjustable waist straps ($17: both Saks Fifth Avenue). Paul Brine wears it at a Long Island field trial.
Around the pits
Sports cars and the fans who drive them or watch them have the raciest look in the field. This fall's pace-setters, shown here at Thompson Raceway, are sweaters in bold color combinations and patterns: su√®ded leathers, the rougher-looking the better, turtle necks, ascots, flame-proof coveralls and, for the pit woman, a water-and-weather-repellent shirt dress. As a final touch, snug-fitting new windproof helmets make even the spectators look like hot drivers.
1 Blond shearling coat ($145, Samuel Robert: Neiman-Marcus; Saks Fifth Avenue) is Didi Ladd's topper for sweater and pants. Short-cuffed gloves are wool knit (Hansen).
2 Corduroy coat, the Goal Coat, has plaid blanket lining, knitted button-up muffler collar ($40, Zero King: John David; Woolf Bros.).
3 Hooded jacket of golden wool coating ($30, Pembroke Squires for Cabana: Field-Schlick; Lord & Taylor) is worn by Bonnie Dalzell.
4 Poplin coat in 37-inch length has Orion-pile lining, is water-repellent ($30, Buck Skein Brand: Abraham & Straus; Broadstreet's).
5 Quilted jacket, Baked Alaska, is lightweight nylon with wool-knit collar, cuffs ($29.50, McCregor-Douiger: R. H. Macy; Mattson's).
6 A rain dress of water-repellent blend of Da-cron-and-cotton, brass-buttoned ($23, Ricci for Haymaker: Bloomingdale's; Joseph Magnin) is worn by Didi with a striped helmet.
7 A wind-repellent jacket of shrunken wool in mountain-green color has black knit trim, Tyrolean print lining, coin buttons ($39.50, B. Teller: Bullock's Downtown; Paul Stuart).
8 Gray-and-white striped alpaca sweater-shirt ($40, Alfred of New York: Bergdorf Goodman; Jas. K. Wilson) is worn with Italian silk square ($3.50, Reis of New Haven).
9 Loden-green flannel skirt has appliqué of sports car insignia ($18, Kenn Barr for Casino Classics: Dayton-Schuneman; Ransohoff's). Leather belt is also decorated with enameled motor car emblems ($13, Roger Van S.).
10 Sports car helmet of soft black leather buttous under chin ($5, Maryan Larkin for Sally Gee: Halle Bros.), is worn with gold sn√®de jacket lined with civet-dyed rabbit ($85, Leather-modes: Kaufmann's; Rich's.
11 Quartet of sweaters: (top) Bonnie in spinach-green pullover ($23, Geist & Geist: Burdiue's); Frank in shawl-collared waffle-weave pullover with two-color trim ($10, Rugby: Gilbert's); Didi in brushed wool with giant hound's-looth check ($14, Catalina: Macy's San Francisco) and Claude in gold-aud-gray district check V-neck pullover ($14, Himalaya: Phelps-Wilger; Wallachs). Girl's blinkers are smoke-toned acetate ($2, Ben-Hur).