The muted, misty paintings on these and the following pages evoke the beauty of the East's last wilderness area—the Allagash of northern Maine. Long known as classic canoe country, the Allagash also is a fine place to hunt, fish and camp. But most of all it offers primeval peace, a rare commodity in the crowded East. Therein lies a tale of controversy that now echoes far beyond tranquil shores (see page 37).

At dawn, a float plane from Greenville brings the day's first fishermen to quiet Allagash Lake

In the stillness of a midmorning drizzle, a guide poles past the stately pines of Round Pond into the white water below