This fall if your sweater looks as if it had been stolen from a Henley crewman, a tennis player or a star of track and field, you can be sure you're in style. Sweaters for casual wear around the campus or on weekends in the country are patterned after those used by athletes.

Most of this fall's new sweaters have a deceptively full and bulky knit but are light in weight. Knitted mohair, luxuriously soufflé in appearance, is more popular than ever before. Thick double-ply wools and lightweight but puffed-out Orion yarns are knit into sweaters of every new shape of the season.

The V-neck tennis pullover, with or without cable stitching, is the No. 1 sport sweater and comes in all sorts of colors and variations. The Swiss-made lemon-yellow mohair sweater shown above, for example, has a plunging V neckline filled in with pale yellow mohair that matches the cuffs and waistband. Imported by T. W. Murphy, it's $40.

Another popular knit is one that looks like Scottish tweed—a look achieved by combining two or more colored strands of loosely knit yarn. Renart has an unusual tweed V neck, also tennis inspired, that combines brown and beige wool ($17). There is also a matching beige fine-gauge-knit turtleneck ($11) that can be worn underneath the heavier sweater.

A sweater called The Sportsman is in a vivid green the sweater makers are calling "tartan." This one has bulky waffle stitching and a border design of red wool and a solid red band at the waist, at the tennis V neck and on the cuffs. Pantino makes it, and it's $18.

Evan-Picone has a tennis classic of white wool with cable stitching and red and navy blue banding. In addition, the same sweater comes in light tan with stripes of camel and grey, red and loden, teal blue and brown. They're all $20.

Ernst Engel, who makes ski clothes, is importing fuzzy Angora V-neck sweaters from Italy that match his ski pants but are too good to keep for winter. These are full-fashioned and pull down over the derriere. They come in raspberry red, jade, butterscotch, beige, light blue, navy and black and cost $20.

Newest offshoot of the V-neck classic is the horseshoe-shaped neckline. Old Colony has solved the difficult knitting problem of a U neckline beautifully, and the result is a brass-colored downy mohair for $15.

All summer long the cotton sweat shirt was the most popular pullover on the beach. Designers, not so dumb, have produced sweat shirts in wool to carry the trend into the fall. The slash-necked, flat-knit pullover with a 12-inch zipper at the neckline (above) by Mr. Mort has the sweat-shirt look. It can be worn open-necked, beach fashion, or with a contrasting-color turtleneck sweater underneath. It comes in black, tan, red and royal blue and is $13.

Jane Irwill has made a crew-necked shirt-sweater of mohair. It comes in blue, chamois, red and black, has a three-button closing at the neckline and costs $15. It looks well with a lightweight wool turtleneck sweater worn underneath. And the Irwill turtlenecks come in eight handsome colors. They're $6.50.

The pattern and the cut of a red-hooded sweater was taken from a boy's sweat suit. It zips up the front and has a rounded snug-fitting hood with cable stitching framing the face. The flat knit, taken from the classic-shaker knit schoolboy sweaters, is called a "stadium sweater" by Renart. It's $15.

A brass-buttoned cardigan has a Harold Teen look, with wide black and white horizontal bands. It is made by Helen Harper in lightweight Orion, it's $12.

A bold-striped sweater from Mr. Mort could have come straight off the back of a soccer player. It has two-inch-wide brown and tartan-green horizontal stripes like a soccer jersey, and it comes with a long striped, fringed muffler. The sweater with muffler is $17.

Mohair has been unusually combined in a two-by-two-inch checkerboard-patterned pullover that is long, loose fitting and loosely knit. Evan-Picone imports it from Florence. It has a wide boat neckline and comes in red and loden checks; blue and brown checks; and camel and grey checks. It is $28.

The turtleneck sweater favored by skiers, sailors and horsemen is now also a favorite with young collegians who pile favorite sweaters on top of favorite turtlenecks, and the bulkier the outer sweater the better. The long, deep-rolled turtleneck pullover shown above comes in sizes for both men and women. It is made in Italy for Bennett of a loose-knit three-ply wool the Italians call stoppino. It comes in warm brown, black and white and costs $20.


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