A Beaufort, SC Vacation—Fly Fishing, Historic Sites & Southern Coastal Charm

I needed a vacation spot where my wife, a non-angler, and I, an obsessed fly angler, could both find plenty to do.

You can find gold in the waters of Beaufort, SC. | Photo by THOMAS BARZiLAY FREUND

I run into this problem all the time. I fly fish, my wife doesn't. That by itself is not a problem, but when it comes time to pick a destination for a vacation, it becomes a problem.

Where can we go where I can get some quality fly fishing and have her enjoy what she enjoys—shopping, cafes, museums, spas, and working out? It is a dilemma; most of the time, the two don't go hand in hand.

Beaufort, South Carolina — The Perfect Solution

If you aren't familiar with Beaufort, it is a coastal southern town just South of Charleston, SC. In Beaufort, time slows down, Spanish moss hangs from the oak trees, the city is rich in history, seafood doesn't get any better, and genuine Southern hospitality is everywhere. And the fishing?

Fly Fishing in Beaufort, SC

South Carolina has 344,500 acres of salt marshes, and 50% of those marshes are in Beaufort County. For the fly angler, that means a whole lotta shallow water to sight fish for tailing Reds, and when I visited there last month, there were a lot of redfish in those marshes. So the answer to the question "And the fishing?" It's excellent and abundant.

You Are Going To Need a Guide

The marshes are one big maze of creeks and rivers; it takes years for someone to learn their way around. A good guide is on the water every day and dialed in on where the happy fish are.

Indigo Fishing Charters

I booked a day with Capt. Jon Gore of Indigo Fishing Charters. There is so much fishable water in Beaufort that we didn't see another boat in any of the spots we fished. If you've never fly fished for red drum, it is more hunting than fishing. During the warmer months, you can get into the grass when the tide is high and look for fish feeding on crabs and shrimp.

What you are looking for is the fish's tail sticking out of the water and waving in the air while its snout is rooting in the mud. When you find fish doing this, and they don't spook easily, this is what guides call a "happy fish."

Winter Has Good Fishing

During the winter, low tide is a good time to fish the flats. You have to be on your game because your shots at a fish come fast, and they are usually moving. One minute is calm and serene, the next your captain is urgently giving instruction: "One o'clock! Forty feet, moving left to right, put it in front of him!" You better have your fly line right and ready to cast. That window can close fast.

Beaufort Has a Lot More To Offer Than Just Good Fishing

When I was out fly fishing, my wife spent the day in the historic downtown district of Beaufort, located alongside the Beaufort River and the Henry C. Chambers Waterfront Park. There was no shortage of shops, restaurants, galleries, and historic sites for her to visit, so she didn't mind my being out on the water for the day.

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When You Visit Beaufort

The Indigo Charters Guide Service

Capt. Jon Gore is an exceptional guide. He was prepared, had a clean, quality boat, brought fly fishing gear in case I didn't have any, and put me on fish. He knows his way around all the creeks and flats and is tuned in to what I call "the active areas." He primarily targets redfish and speckled sea trout, but if the timing is right, you can have opportunities to chase tarpon, jack crevalle, sharks, triple tail, and cobia.

Capt. Jon Gore getting his client into some cobia. | photo by Jon Gore

If you are a beginner fly angler, Jon is long on patience and not one to yell or make you feel foolish because you didn't make the perfect cast. He will give you some instruction if needed and get you onto another fish. It's mostly laughs and good conversation in between caught fish.

A jack crevalle caught in Beaufort, SC. | photo by Jon Gore

Downtown Beaufort

My wife convinced me to visit downtown Beaufort before we left. I suspect she just wanted another day to check out the shops.

I was ok with that because I wanted to get some flies at the Bay Street Outfitters. Amongst their outdoor gear is a fully stocked fly shop. Plus, I wanted to visit a few of the antique stores - I'm always looking for old fly tackle. And then we'd have dinner at the Old Bull Tavern.

The truth is we had eaten at the Old Bull the night before, and the food and atmosphere were so good that we decided to eat there one more time before we left. Two nights in a row, and there wasn't a weak dish on our table.

The Highlight of the Trip

If you really want to do Beaufort right, stay a few nights at the Anchorage 1770. This was the highlight of our trip. As the name states, the Inn was built in the 1700s. Its location is perfect for staying in Beaufort. It is across the street from the water and is within walking distance from the main street of the historic downtown area.

It has a rich history; much of the architecture of the building is from the original structure and reflects its fascinating past. Whatever restoration that's been done is historically sensitive and maintains the authenticity of the building. Its roots run deep, and you can feel its ghosts throughout the building.

I got a chance to tour the property. Every guest room has its own story and unique decor. Some of the building's owners from its historical past were a little on the eccentric side. The room we stayed in still had secret panels that one of the owners had built to hide alcohol from his wife. If the walls could talk.

A guest room in the Anchorage 1770. | photo by Ken Baldwin

The Ribaut Social Club

In 1891, the Anchorage was home to the Ribaut Social Club. It hosted parties, dances, and even gambling. January 2017 marked the return of the Ribaut Social Club within the Anchorage, "as a fine dining and social space for Beaufort locals and visitors to mingle over cocktails and impeccable regional cuisine."

My wife and I had dinner there on our first night, and it was like something out of a movie. Surrounded by all that history and delicious food made from local, fresh ingredients. This was authentic Lowcountry culture. I scored big points with my wife.

Fly Fishing, Culture, and Delicious Food

This is a trip that will satisfy both the angler and the non-angler. The fishing for redfish is some of the best in the Southeast. There is plenty to see and do in downtown Beaufort. A food scene that reflects Southern culture mixed with fresh seafood. Southern cocktails can be enjoyed on a porch overlooking the river. And the Anchorage 1770 Inn that will make your stay in Beaufort extra special.

There is no bad time of the year to visit since the weather never gets too cold, and the fishing is good all year around. Beaufort is a special place with a tangible feel to it. Bring a fly rod, bring a partner, and soak in the Southern hospitality of the Lowcountry. KB

"The gods do not deduct from man’s allotted span the hours spent in fishing.” - Herbert Hoover