It’s the Stuff of Dreams. Fly Fishing and Adventure in the Wilds of Africa.

The boat I'm in swerves left, I feel a little bump, and then we straighten out to make a sharp left around a point.

Over the sound of the motor, I asked the guide, "What was that?" He raised his shoulders, indicating, "I don't know," as he said, "A hippo?" He had a big smile on his face. I didn't know him well enough yet to know if he was messing with me or just speaking the few words of English he knew.

River and fishing guide Adam Kapinga of the Nxamaseri River Lodge in Africa, operating a boat on the Okavango River. — River and fishing guide Adam Kapinga brought knowledge and a great attitude to the boat every day. | Photo courtesy of Desert and Delta Safaris

The Beginning of a Trip of a Lifetime

That moment started with a simple email that showed up in my inbox last summer. At the core of it was a question: would I be interested in coming to Africa to experience a safari? I said, “Heck yeah I’d be interested in going to Africa to experience a safari. I’d be extra interested if I could go to Africa and experience a big tigerfish on the end of a fly rod.”

They said, “Ok.”

I said, “Ok.”

And that’s how I ended up in the Okavango Delta, bouncing through a narrow channel in Botswana, chasing big, scary fish.

In a small boat heading down a channel that merges with the Okavango River. — The channel that takes us to the Okavango River and big tigerfish. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

The Tigerfish.

I’ve always wanted to catch one. It’s in my top four bucketlist species alongside giant trevally, golden dorado, and a sea-run brown trout.

If you’re not familiar with tigerfish, think of a striped bass and piranha hybrid, on steroids. Give it long teeth, dangerously sharp, and a vampire scowl across its face.
That’s the fish I wanted to tangle with.

A tigerfish from the Okavango River, caught on a streamer with a fly rod. — Keep your fingers away from the business end. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

Nxamaseri Island Lodge

It was a long trip to get to Africa, but the fatigue washed away with a cold rum drink while standing in the social area of the Nxamaseri Island Lodge. This is my home base for the week.
The lodge sits on a small island surrounded by a papyrus-lined channel in the Okavango Delta. The channel connects to the Okavango River about two miles downstream.

Standing there made me think of the film Out of Africa. The lodge has that vibe—exotic hardwood timbers, thatched roofs, open space facing the water.
It’s in the middle of the wild. It feels like it, sounds like it.

And my brain isn’t fully present - I’m thinking about the tigerfish.

Nxamaseri River Lodge dining area — Nxamaseri Island Lodge dining area | Photos courtesy of Desert and Delta Safaris

When I started researching fly fishing gear for this type of fishing, I didn’t find much. I leaned on what I remembered from reading about it, plus whatever bits I could find online. Even then, the information was limited.

I did know one thing.

Bring wire tippet.

The African Night

I finish my drink. The sun had set. Beyond the lodge lights, it was completely dark.
I couldn’t find it in me to sit down and take in the African night. I wanted to check my gear, shower, and get to bed.

Guest of the Nxamaseri River Lodge relaxing at the end of the day by the firepit. — Calm and peaceful on this side, wild and dangerous on the other. | Photos courtesy of Desert and Delta Safaris

From the grass reeds along the channel, a sound. Loud, not quite a roar, more like a growl—something deep and guttural—rolled out of the vegetation and flooded the social area of the lodge.

That got my attention.

The staff didn’t flinch. So I asked. “What was that?” “That’s a hippo, my friend.”

First Class Comfort in the Wild

The way the lodge is set up, each guest gets a room built at the end of a walkway branching off from the central lodge area. The whole structure sits above the ground on short stilts.
Standing there, surrounded by thick vegetation, birds, and the sounds of wildlife, it feels like you’re floating in a jungle.

The walkway to the rooms at the Nxamaseri River Lodge — The walkway to the rooms. | Photos courtesy of Desert and Delta Safaris

I know technically it isn’t a jungle. “Riverbank vegetation” would be more accurate. But standing there, with the plants, trees, wildlife, and sounds surrounding us, it sure felt like a jungle.

The Nxamaseri River Lodge guests' rooms have netting over the windows, a shower, and thatched ceilings. — The Nxamaseri Island Lodge rooms are some of the best I've ever stayed in. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

Back in my room, I spread out my gear for one last go-over before morning.

Tigerfish Fly Gear

Rods

- Two 9-weights and two 10-weights
- I plan to use the 9-weights unless conditions force me up to the tens.

An Abel fly reel, St. Croix Evos fly rod, and a big streamer rigged up for tigerfish in Africa. — A 9-weight St. Croix rod, 7/8 Abel SDS reel, sinking line, wire tippet, and a big ugly streamer. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

Flies (Streamers)

Twelve streamers tied for three days of fishing. I wish I had brought 20. The tigerfish go through them fast. 5 to 7 inches long, simple in design, and tied on stout hooks. Simple Clousers, six inches long, are a great choice.

- Colors:
- Anything bright, gaudy, shiny. Silver flash works well.
- Black with a bright color.
- White
- The water is stained, so the brighter the better.

A Gamakatsu fly box of big, ugly streamers for tigerfish. — My Gamakatsu fly box of big, ugly streamers for tigerfish. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

Line, Leader, Tippet

- Fly Line:
- Scientific Anglers Sonar Titan Sink 3D
- Floating line for topwater
(If you only bring one line for tigerfish, bring the sinking line)
- Tippet:
- SA Absolute Fluorocarbon 40 lb
- 20–30 lb wire bite tippet

Clothing

My technical clothing was from HUK and a Buff. The boat isn’t covered, and the African sun is no joke. Sunhoodies and Buffs go a long way toward keeping the sun off your neck and face.

I feel good about my gear and was ready to go to bed. ~Ken Baldwin-Follow me here on my Instagram account