The West’s Best Fly Fishing Isn’t in Montana Anymore

Where can you find big rivers, small streams, healthy trout, and a vibrant mountain culture.?
Fly fishing in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison River
Fly fishing in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison River | photo by Jasper Taback

Colorado holds a special place in my heart – it’s where I learned to fly fish and really caught the bug, so I try to get back whenever I can.

Recently, the opportunity came up to spend a few days exploring trout water in a part of the state that was new to me, and I jumped.

Colorado’s Gunnison Valley 

The Gunnison Valley, tucked between the San Juan and West Elk Mountains on Colorado’s Western Slope, is best known for two destination mountain towns – Gunnison and Crested Butte. 

Both towns are great in their own right, but there’s a whole lot more to the valley worth experiencing.

Fly Fishing Basecamp in Almont

My home base was Almont, a small town located between Gunnison and Crested Butte, where the East and Taylor Rivers meet to form the Gunnison. I stayed in a cabin on the banks of the Taylor, and it was the ideal jumping-off point to explore the whole valley.

The Two Sides of the Gunnison River

The best known trout fishery in the Gunnison Valley is – you guessed it – the Gunnison River. It can be thought of in two main stretches: the upper river, winding through ranchland from Almont to Blue Mesa Reservoir, and the lower river below the dam, cutting through the rugged Gunnison Gorge and Black Canyon.

I spent a day fishing on each stretch, and the two couldn’t look more different. On the Upper Gunnison, I fished long, slow-moving runs in wide open meadows filled with gold-leafed aspen trees. In the Black Canyon, the walls close in, the flows pick up, and everything feels much smaller. They are two very different environments, both with excellent trout fishing.

Gunnison River brown trout
A brown trout from the Upper Gunnison River | photo by Jasper Taback

Technical Fishing on the Taylor River

I split another day between the Taylor River and one of its tributaries. Fed by releases from Taylor Park Dam, the Taylor runs cold and clear year-round – making it a great option for winter fishing.

That said, it’s technical fishing – and after a morning of dredging small nymphs, I decided to go up higher to find less sophisticated fish. 

A Change of Pace on Spring Creek

That afternoon, I was fishing a single dry fly on Spring Creek above Almont. The fish weren't big – but after a few hours of constantly switching flies, depth, and weight, a handful of six- inch trout willing to come up and crush a hopper was a welcome change.

The Gunnison Valley, Beyond the Water

The Gunnison Valley is full of open space and public water, but it’s got a lively cultural side too. On my last day – after a few post-fishing beers at the Eldo – I caught a movie premiere at the Center for the Arts in Crested Butte.

It was the world premiere of Matchstick Productions’ new ski film. My mental shift from fishing to ski season usually starts in November, but this definitely jump-started it.

More Than a Fly Fishing Destination

I was relieved to see that I wasn’t the only viewer who clearly had just come off the water. As you might expect, there’s a good deal of overlap between skiers and fly anglers in Crested Butte, and in the Gunnison Valley as a whole.

It’s a special community fueled by a passion for the outdoors, and I've already started planning a return trip.

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Published | Modified
Jasper Taback
JASPER TABACK

Jasper Taback began his outdoor career in the mountains of northern Colorado, where a short stint guiding anglers on trout streams evolved into a budding career writing about all things fly fishing. He has published more than forty articles in AnyCreek’s Outdoor Academy, highlighting the top fishing guides and destinations across the globe. An avid angler in the warm months, he spends his winters skiing and hunting waterfowl. Jasper is a graduate of Pomona College in Southern California.