Highlights: Hawaii's Black Friday Swell Delivers Massive Surf On Maui
Seasoned big-wave surfers in Hawaii, from Kai Lenny to Mark Healey, all described the giant northwest swell that hit the Hawaiian Islands the day after Thanksgiving as unexpectedly big and power. Forecast models indicated it was going to be big, but it's always interesting when swell events like this exceed expectations.
While spots like Waimea Bay and the Outer Reefs of Oahu had their moments, some of the most intense action of the swell went down on Maui, where Pe'ahi delivered something for everyone.
Perhaps the biggest hero to come out of the session at Pe'ahi was 15-year-old "Baby" Stevie Roberson. Getting towed into a wave that is probably in the neighborhood of 50 feet, it was one of those waves that will undoubtedly change the trajectory of his life and career. Only 10 years old when he surfed Pe'ahi with his brothers for the first time, the wave he just rode even had 11-time world champion Kelly Slater fired up, calling the ride, "Incredible." Also, young Roberson is currently without a sponsor...so Red Bull, if you're listening, here's your next guy. Don't wait.
In a contrast of youth versus experience, Pe'ahi veteran Albee Layer indulged himself by paddling into a crazy, cavernous barrel. Given how wild the conditions were out there, to paddle the swell took an extra amount of grit and determination. Layer's got plenty of both and it's great to see him having a good winter at a spot so interwined with his life.
Lenny was another one that turned heads for a number of reasons. First, in attempting to save his board from sure annihilation, he got sucked over the falls and absolutely pounded. In a testament to the man's toughness in resolve, awhile later he landed a wild, mid-face backflip. Launching into the bowl of the wave, it was a maneuver that's not only never been done, nobody may have ever even thought about it.
Bigger than expected with larger-than-life performances by all involved. As with any swell event like this, a debt of gratitude is owed to all the water safety experts in the water keeping everyone safe and pulling them out of the chaos when things go south.
