An Alaskan Fishing Guide's Farewell: It’s Good To Be Back, but Can I Still Do This?

After walking away from a twenty-year guiding career in Alaska to write full-time, I’m getting the chance to return for one more week on the water. This is the second installment of a ten-part series where I’ll share each day’s story—the fish landed, the humor that comes with helping people catch them, and an insider's view of the life of an Alaskan guide.

Lake Iliamna. It's good to be back. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

• Day 1: One More Chance Before I'm Done

• Day 3: Exploring Wild Alaska by Raft and Fly Rod

• Day 4: Big Fish, Bigger Bears, and a Bruised Ego.

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Day 2

Today is my first full day at the lodge, and it was about getting my guiding feet back under me. The previous week's lodge guest flew out this morning, so the guides have 24 hours to relax, work on their gear, and fix what needs fixing.

Jumping Into the Fire

My goal today is to become comfortable with running the jet boat and then learning the river. I'm hoping operating a jet boat is like riding a bike; once you know how, it comes back quickly.

Operating a jet boat on the Iliamna River in Alaska back in 2007. | Photo by Mason Cochran

Rocket Sleds

I am a little anxious. These boats are like water sleds with a jet engine on the back. When you get them on plane, they can go through 4-6 inches of water. But they are easy to lose control of, and you don't want to hit a big rock or miss a turn and go up on the bank, especially with gear and clients in the boat.

It's All Fun and Games Until You Flip a Boat

I need to take some test runs today to get my confidence back. Having a mishap up here is no joke. There aren't any roads in or out, no hospitals, and no place for a lodge plane to land on the river.

First though is resupplying the lodge with groceries and doing maintenance.

There is No DoorDash Up Here

Getting groceries to the lodge to feed 14 people isn't as easy as going to our local grocery store - there is no grocery store. It all has to be flown from Anchorage to the town of Iliamna, about a 400-mile round trip. Then the groceries are unloaded and transferred to a lodge plane and flown out to the lodge.

How we get the groceries to the lodge. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

Team Work

It's the guide's job, along with the pilot, to load up the groceries and deliver them to the lodge. That's hundreds of pounds of veggies, eggs, milk, and all the other essentials and nonessentials needed to make our incoming guests feel like they are staying in 5-star lodging.

The Team

The lodge has two full-time guides and one guide/manager. Luke Valentino, Patrick Harris, and John Coffman. Plus Macy Coffman, who runs the lodge when John is out guiding. The kitchen is run by Chef Mike Lynch. I'm sure they are tired of me by now with all my questions, but they don't show it.

Guide Luke Valentino has been a big help in me getting acclimated to the rivers in Alaska and making sure I don't bang up their motors in the process. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

Lodge Life At the Ridge

Living in a lodge means sharing close quarters. For the guests, it is luxury; for guides, it's small dorm-style sleeping quarters, shared bathrooms, and a guide's locker-dining area. You'd better like each other, or at least be able to get along, or it can be a long haul.

More than I need for a good night's sleep. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

Good Team Chemistry

It's a crapshoot when you throw a bunch of guys together. Egos, baggage, attitude, and testosterone all have an effect on the chemistry. It's like a sports locker room, where one person can damage the cohesion of the whole team. But if you do have the right chemistry, it can be laughs, good times, and where real friendships are developed.

Guide Patrick Harris getting his boat in position for loading. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

Chef Mike Lynch is given the responsibility for the most important job of the day. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

It's Time

After finishing the lodge maintenance, Luke Valintino tells me it's time to do some test runs in the boat. He doesn't actually say I'm being tested, but that's the reality of it. It doesn't matter how much experience I say I have; they have to see it for themselves to trust putting their guests in a boat with me.

The Testing Grounds

The "obstacle" course I'll be tested on is a slough connecting the Copper River to a small lake. It has sharp corners and turns, and it is shallow. To run it correctly, you must be on plane, which means maintaining a fast speed and making turns without slowing down. If you don't, you'll suck up mud and grass. Or if you lose control, you will end up running aground.

Expectations

I'm tentative in the first run because I have to find my balance, and I'm not familiar with the boat. The second run is easier, and by the third, it all feels familiar. The rest of what is expected of me, I'm ok with: show up on time, be good with people, know my way around a fly rod, and catch fish...and don't be a jerk.

By my third run I was feeling it. | Photo by Vivian Julia

Freedom

As I moved through my day, many memories and feelings came back. I missed Alaska and this lifestyle. It's hard work, but it doesn't feel like work. It was best said last night at dinner: "It feels like freedom up here." I agree.

Almost lost that one. | Photo by Jim Kern

Tomorrow, Game Time

I hit the ground running today, and I'm going to sleep well tonight. Tomorrow, the new guests come in. My one-day preseason is over. Physically, I'm ready; mentally, I just hope I don't screw up. It's those dang jet boats on the river that are the wild card. You don't get a lot of wiggle room when flying up the river at top speed.

I'm tired, though, and have no doubt I'll knock out when I hit the bed. I miss my wife, I miss my dog, but man, I didn't realize how much I missed Alaska. KB

        "The gods do not deduct from man’s allotted span the hours spent in fishing.” - Herbert Hoover

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