A Fly Fishing Trip to Africa Took an Unexpected Turn on Safari

Part 1: It’s the Stuff of Dreams. Fly Fishing and Adventure in the Wilds of Africa.
Part 2: A Fly Angler's Trip to the Okavango River in Africa

Halfway through my trip to Africa, I was offered a chance to go on a safari with Desert and Delta Safaris. They arranged my stay at the Nxamaseri Island Lodge, and now they invited me on a safari. You would think I said yes right away, but the fishing for tigerfish was too good, I didn't want to leave the river.

It Was a Tough Choice

Nxamaseri Island Lodge guest room | Photo provided by Desert and Delta

Keep hunting for the big fish, or experience lions, elephants, and other African game in the wild?

A close-up of a male greater kudu standing in front of a tree. — A long lens makes a big difference in getting the shot. | Greater kudu | Fuji XF150-600mmF5.6-8 | Photo by Ken Baldwin

I put the fly rod away and unpacked my camera and long lens. I caught a lot of fish in the last three days. I wanted to take a picture of a lion. And not just a lion but a lion in the wild.

The Safari

On the day of the safari, I climb into an open-top SUV. Our safari guide explains some rules to us so we don't get mauled or skewered, and then we slowly move through the bush.

A Desert and Delta SUV outdoors in Africa, loaded with a YETI bag and ready to be boarded. — The vehicle that makes it safe for us to view the animals in their wild habitat. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

We slowly moved along in an SUV, looking through the bush for a lion as naturally as if I were in West Virginia hunting for deer. The technique was the same. I was searching for a flick of an ear, a moving branch, birds suddenly lifting off.

A lion hidden behind branches looking right into the camera lens. — This look put me on edge. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

Eye to Eye With an Elephant

We didn't have to travel far before I was looking eye to eye with an elephant sporting large tusks. The vehicle I'm sitting in is tall, and the elephant is standing just off the dirt road, a short stone's throw away. I'm looking at him, he's looking at me. I turn my head, tap my guide on the shoulder, and ask him, "Is it ok for the elephant and me to be staring at each other?”

A close-up of an elephant's face in the wild. — No bars or fences between the animals and us. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

The whole safari was that surreal. We were in their backyard, but if we stayed in the vehicle, some of the animals would walk within a few feet of us, just passing by.

A close up of two giraffes with a cloudless sky behind them. — Close enough to count the spots. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

Eventually, we stopped where the bush gave way to a large floodplain. Animals were everywhere. Herds are grazing slowly. Young animals chasing each other. Others resting.

Herds of zebras and impalas feeding on an open plain in Africa. — A richness of animals as I had never seen before. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

The Rulers of the House

Behind us, on a small rise at the edge of the bush, was a pride of lions.

They weren’t doing much. Mostly sleeping. Cubs playing. One large female stretched out on the highest point, watching everything.

A mama lion laying in the shade watching over everything. — She watches over everything. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

Inside the vehicle we were eating sandwiches, taking photos, and watching impalas play in front of us.

Two male impalas play fighting a few feet from our vehicle on the African plain. — Two male impalas play fighting a few feet from our vehicle. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

Then the big female stood up.

From Serene to Serious

She wasn’t tense, but there was energy in the way she moved.

A mama lion stands at attention and looks intense. — When the Mama lion became alert, everything changed. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

And instantly the mood of the African plain changed.

The impalas near our vehicle got outta there fast. Zebras lifted their heads. Even the animals further out began shifting nervously. It blew my mind how quickly all the animals, some of them hundreds of yards away, picked up on the lions' change of energy.

Zebras looking in the direction of the waking pride of lions. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

Everything Felt Different

The female lion started pacing. Younger lions gathered near her. Out on the plain, the animals stopped grazing and started watching.

An impala looking up to locate danger. — Alert to the lions becoming active. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

The Air Became Electric

The nervous energy that started in close went through the valley, from animal to animal, like a falling line of dominoes. It was crazy to see and feel this energy shift in real time.

Our guide quietly moved the vehicle forward and off to the side.

A Mama lion and two younger lions walking towards the camera. — Mama lion and two generations of daughters are heading to the open plain where the other animals are feeding. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

Lions on the Move

I watched as the lioness and two younger lions walked toward the open plain in a loose V formation. Not rushing, but definitely going somewhere.

When they reached the tall grass they dropped into stalk mode. Their bodies hidden, eyes peeking over the grass like periscopes.

An Just Like That

Nothing happened. The mama lion stood up, turned around, and started heading back. The baby cubs joined them, and everyone started to play.

A Mama lion and her cub playing in the dirt. — What started out as an intense stalking turned to play time for the cubs. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

On the Lions Time

Maybe it was practice, maybe the female lion was teaching the young ones. The electricity in the air went from 0 to 100 in a split second, then back to zero just as fast.

A herd of zebras is grazing by the water, their reflections clearly visible. — The zebras went back to feeding, with one always keeping watch. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

The Wild Side of Africa

Visiting the wild parts of Africa is like traveling back in time. The waters are filled with prehistoric and dangerous-looking fish sporting extra-long, razor-like teeth. The bush and plains are populated with animals playing the game of cat and mouse.

A close-up of an African tigerfish face and teeth as it's being held by metal grips and pulled out of the water. — African tigerfish from the Okavango River | Photo by Ken Baldwin

I went as a guest of Desert and Delta, and they provided me access to the wildest parts of Africa while keeping me safe. Staying at their Nxamaseri Island Lodge gave me a chance to tangle with the tigerfish on a fly rod. A vicious freshwater predator whose fight I will never forget.

An Experience as Big as Africa

And then, staying at Chobe Game Lodge and spending two days on safari is not something I can compare to anything else I’ve done. I’ve spent a lot of time in close proximity to the Alaskan brown bear. But this was bigger. It wasn’t just one animal—it was a whole environment that was wild, moving together, and you’re sitting right in the middle of it.

An orange sky with the sun setting over the plains of Africa. — A fitting end to a special week in Africa. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

The Stuff of Dreams

This trip to Africa was a big one for me. If it were only catching tigerfish on a fly rod, that would have been enough, but to go on a safari allowed me to live out the stuff of dreams. I came to Africa for tigerfish, but it’s everything around them that I’ll remember. ~Ken Baldwin Follow me here on my Instagram account

"Slow down...listen to the hoppers...be patient with yer wife...eat sardines with hot sauce... catch “Gagger” trout!!!" – Flip Pallot

Part 1: It’s the Stuff of Dreams. Fly Fishing and Adventure in the Wilds of Africa.Part 2: A Fly Angler's Trip to the Okavango River in Africa