Experience Fly Fishing History, Wild Trout, and a Classic Catskills Autumn

If I were limited to fish only one season a year, it would be autumn, and you can’t do fall much better than the Catskills. The historic trout waters are reason enough to go, and the small towns, good food, and fall colors make it more than a fishing trip.

It doesn't get any better than fly fishing on a warm autumn day and having the river to yourself. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

This summer has been brutally hot, not just here in Charleston, South Carolina, but across most of the country. I’m not a hot-weather guy; I never have been. I grew up in the Pacific Northwest, and guided in Alaska for 20 summers. All this hot weather has me thinking about fly fishing in autumn.

My Favorite Season to Fly Fish

If I could only fish one season, it would be fall. My idea of bliss is standing knee-deep in a cool, clear river with the trees around me saturated in reds, oranges, and yellows. The air feels different that time of year. There is just a tinge of sadness in it, connected to time and things passing.

Fly Fishing the Catskills in Autumn

If I don’t catch anything, but the leaves are in fall color, I’m okay with that. The beauty of the woods is enough to make it a good day.

My wife, two friends, and I spent several days in New York’s Catskills last fall. None of them fly fish, but that didn’t pose a problem. I was able to get my fishing in, and they explored the small towns, enjoyed good restaurants, and were able to slow down and get in a few days of a classic autumn season in upstate New York. 

An Afternoon on the Willowemoc

I'm hesitant to wax poetic, but there was one afternoon when it all came together on the water, and it speaks to why fly fishing the Catskills in the fall should be a must-do if you are a fly angler and enjoy the classic side of our sport.

I was standing in Willowemoc Creek, making a few half-hearted casts and spending more time looking around than watching my fly. The trees were on fire in their autumn colors, and I was just upstream from a very old covered bridge. The whole scene looked more like a painting than a real place.

The Woman on the River

Then a woman I’d guess was in her seventies slowly walked down the bank wearing old hip boots, a heavy flannel shirt, and a worn canvas packer-style hat. She had long, grey hair hanging down her back in a braided ponytail. I watched her step into the water, strip some line from her reel, and make an effortless cast across the current into a seam.

I didn’t want to stare, but I couldn’t help not to.

The Catskills in a Single Moment

Nothing about the way she moved, cast, or worked the water suggested anything but skill and years of experience. She was smooth and unhurried, completely at home standing under the covered bridge.

I could only chuckle and shake my head. It was all too perfect.

The Waters of Theodore Gordon

The Catskills are considered the birthplace of the American dry-fly tradition.

In the late 1800s, Theodore Gordon adapted English dry-fly techniques to the faster rivers and native insects found in the Catskills. Other forms of fly fishing existed in the United States before then, but this is where Mr. Gordon helped turn the English style of dry-fly fishing into an American tradition.

You Can Feel the History

It feels different fishing these waters. This thing we so love to do —being able to fish where it all started — made me stop and take pause. One thing that surprised me is the quality of the rivers, creeks, and surrounding woods. In some stretches, I’m sure it looks the same as it did back when Mr. Gordon fished here.

Where to Stay - Callicoon Hills

I booked rooms at the Callicoon Hills to serve as our home base while visiting the Catskills. Some things I read describe it as a resort, but it's not. I'd say it’s more a restored Catskills mountain lodge that holds on to the region’s original character.

It wasn’t too smooth or polished. The worn wood, simple rooms, and warm, rustic feel fit right in with the fall season. After standing in a cold river all day, coming back to all that wood and warmth felt especially good.

The Gathering Spot

In the main building of the lodge was a coffee and social area that became our favorite spot. It was simple, all wood, with tables, booths, pillows, and quiet corners to cubbyhole in with a book.

The coffee shop wasn’t open all day, but the space was. We met there in the mornings to have coffee and plan our days. When it rained, we hung out, worked on our laptops, and relaxed. In the evenings, we came back to this space to end the day with some wine, beer, and conversation.

Perfect Location

Callicoon Hills is located in Callicoon Center, about 15 minutes from the riverside hamlet of Callicoon. I know, that’s a lot of Callicoons being thrown around. I was confused too. Think of it this way: Callicoon Hills is the "lodge," Callicoon Center is the area the lodge is located, and Callicoon is where you go for shops, restaurants, and the Delaware River.

You are also 20 minutes from Livingston Manor and within easy reach of Narrowsburg and Roscoe. All three towns have great shops, restaurants, and plenty to explore.

Between Livingston Manor and Roscoe, there are three fly shops, including Dette Flies, a family-run shop founded in 1928 and an important part of the Catskills’ fly-fishing history. You are also close to three of the region’s most historic fly-fishing waters: the Delaware River, Willowemoc Creek, and Beaver Kill. What else do you need?

The Surrounding Area

• Pick any local town, and it has a Main Street with shopping, art galleries, and restaurants—too many interesting food choices to get to in four nights. One we did visit was the Threshold. It’s described as a “Korean Catskills Kitchen.” The dishes are made with local produce that supports the area’s farms and authentic Korean ingredients. This is a creative, unique place with great food and drinks.

• Also on the Callicoon Hills property is the Conover Club Restaurant. I wish we had eaten here more. We tried a lot of dishes, I mean A LOT. It was our first night, and we were kinda feeling it. We warmed up on local beer and went after the appetizers because we hadn't eaten all day. There is so much good food coming out of their kitchen; one night was not enough.
  

• The North Branch Cider Mill. This was a cool stop on the side of the road. It is a completely restored 1942 historic landmark turned into an old-fashioned country store. The main attraction is the fresh apple cider, and cider doughnuts. You can't get any more autumn vibes than fresh, hot apple cider. 

• The Catskills Fly Fishing Center and Museum. This is part museum and part tribute to the anglers, fly tiers, and rod makers who helped shape fly fishing in America. We got some heavy rain on one of the days, so we came here and slowly took our time taking in the exhibits. I’m a big fan of classic fly fishing gear. The place is filled with old reels, bamboo rods, clothing, accessories, antique hand-tied flies, photographs, and stories from the sport’s history.
  
  

Fly Fishing Slowed Down

Fishing the Catskills is different from any other watershed I've fished in the U.S. It is not fast, trophy fishing, or going after big numbers. The rivers are smaller and more intimate; they inspire fishing slowly, at an easier pace.

You don't need to shoot out a long cast with a fast rod. If you want to fish fiberglass or bamboo, go ahead: you would feel right at home.

Beautiful but coming to an end. That's autumn. | Photo by Ken Baldwin

The Catskills Have Ghosts

Standing in these rivers, it’s easy to picture the anglers of decades past, in wool jackets, carrying creels and smoking a pipe . You are literally fishing the same pools where European dry-fly fishing started in America. The history isn’t confined to museums or old photographs; you can feel it on the water.

A Great Trip All Around

I had a blast, and so did my non-fishing friends. The Catskills give you an authentic autumn experience, and it was the best after a hot summer. I'm looking forward to visiting again, and my non-fishing friends feel the same way. ~KB

Follow me on Instagram @KenBaldwin7. I share the stories behind my articles, photography from my fly-fishing adventures, gear I’m testing, wildlife encounters, and the outdoor places that inspire them.

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Needed Info

Callicoon Hills, 1 Hills Resort Rd, Callicoon Center, NY 12724
Two and a half hours from New York City. (845) 482-2420

Fly Fishing Guide Joe Heusinger - Covert Creek Outfitting. (845) .475-5033

The Catskills Fly Fishing Center and Museum - Friday to Monday 10-4, Fly tying Demo most Saturdays 11-3. (845) 439-4810

The North Branch Cider Mill - 38 North Branch Callicoon Centre Road, North Branch, NY 12766,
(845) 482-2136

The Threshold restaurant - 430 Old Route 17, Livingston Manor, NY 12758 Mon, Tue, Thu 5-9pm, Wed - closed, Fri, Sat, Sun 4-9pm, (845) 204-8814

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"Slow down...listen to the hoppers...be patient with yer wife...eat sardines with hot sauce... catch “Gagger” trout!!!" – Flip Pallot